Missouri Wines

Old Guard Wins Big

Posted at May 28, 2008 11:41

By Doug Frost

WITH PLENTY OF NEW WINERIES among the sixty or so in
Missouri’s market today, it’s the old guard that keeps leading the way.
That’s a strong contrast from other states; often the old guard can be
stuck in its ways, and the young Turks spearhead the improvements.

At this year’s State Fair competition, five wineries collected all nine
Best of Class awards and the Governor’s Cup. Indeed, all twenty-nine
gold medals were shared by nine wineries. Those wineries were Augusta
Winery, Blumenhof Vineyards, Crown Valley Vineyards, Cave Vineyards,
Durso Hills Vineyards, Hermannhof Winery, Montelle Winery, St. James
Winery, and Stone Hill Winery. Six of
those exemplify the old guard.

Stone Hill continues its success, both
in Missouri and in national competitions.
Stone Hill won four Best of Class
awards: The Best of Class Best Sweet
White went to Stone Hill’s 2006 Vignoles;
the Best of Class Late Harvest went to its
Late Harvest Vignoles 2005. Both these
wines are great examples of the apricot
and peach notes great Vignoles can
show, alongside notes of melon, lemon,
and apple. Not surprisingly, Stone Hill
also won the Best of Class Best Dessert/
Fortified with its lovely Port and Best of
Class Best Semi-Dry White with its 2006
Traminette.

Crown Valley took Best Sparkling Wine with their easy Chardonel
Brut 2006 (an honor Stone Hill has often earned).

Blumenhof Vineyards took Best of Class Dry White with its 2006
Seyval Blanc. It was a rather disappointing showing for many of the
Seyval Blancs, but not so with this crisp and tangy bottling.

The Governor’s Cup went to Augusta Winery’s Estate Chambourcin
2004 as did the Best of Class Dry Red, and if I could find more of this
wine, I’d send a bottle to every wine writer who has yet to discover
what this grape can do here. A smart taster might also realize that Tony
Kooyumjian, winemaker for Augusta and Montelle wineries, makes
knockout wines across the board. But he’s proven his mettle with brilliant
Chambourcin. His Reserve Red won Best of Class Best Semi-Dry
Red, and his Apple Brandy won Best of Class Best Distilled Beverage.

In future competitions, perhaps newer wineries will weigh in. But
because the 2007 vintage was challenging, in all likelihood, in next year’s
competition, as this year’s, experience will carry the day.

December 2007

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