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NinaNina Furstenau, author of Savor Missouri
By Nina Furstenau
Ripened on a tree, juice-dripping and magnificent, it’s not too late for Missouri peaches. If you’re up for a country drive, nine-plus peach orchards and markets near Lexington along the Sante Fe Trail (Highway 24) have juicy peaches to offer. Right about now in Hermann, Buckridge Farm is selling Glo Havens at 603 Market in the lumber yard parking lot. The next varieties of Buckridge peaches to ripen, Contenders and Summer Pearl, are worth a stop, too. Right now in Columbia, the farmer’s markets are selling out of peaches, so arrive early.
Peaches have always been in demand. By the 18th century, peach trees, had naturalized so abundantly throughout the southeastern and mid-Atlantic colonies that European visitors thought they were native to North America. The fruit was transported here from Asia either by the Spanish in St. Augustine, Florida, or by the French near the Gulf of Mexico in the mid-1500s.
Mary Randolph’s early American cookbook, The Virginia Housewife, contains peach recipes. In her 1831 introduction to the book, she says, “The difficulties I encountered when I first entered on the duties of a house-keeping life, from the want of books sufficiently clear and concise to impart knowledge to a Tyro, compelled me to study the subject, and by actual experiment to reduce everything in the culinary line, to proper weights and measures.” She includes recipes “to fry calf’s feet,” “calf’s head fricassee,” and “to hash a calf’s head,” and my favorite, “when the head is ready to add in, stir in a bit of butter.” Proper weights and measures, indeed. The six recipes for peaches seem tame, and clearer in today’s world, by comparison.
Here’s what Mrs. Randolph directed for “Peach chips”:
Slice them thin, and boil them till clear in a syrup made with half their weight of sugar; lay them on dishes in the sun, and turn them till dry; pack them in pots with powdered sugar sifted over each layer; should there be syrup left, continue the process with other peaches. They are very nice when done in pure honey instead of sugar.
While you may think of peach cobbler or pie first, the peach chips sound pretty good. I go for most things when the options include pure honey. Here’s another peach recipe to try: refreshing chilled peach drink from Crown Valley Winery in Ste Genevieve featured in Savor Missouri: River Hill Country Food and Wine.
Sparkling Peaches and Cream
2 cups fresh peach slices (or one 16 ounce can, undrained)
½ cup unsweetened pineapple juice, chilled
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon vanilla
4 ice cubes
1 cup light cream
½ cup sparkling mineral water or carbonated water, chilled
1 cup Chardonel wine, chilled
Sliced almonds (optional)
In a blender, combine the peach slices, pineapple juice, egg, sugar, lemon juice, vanilla, and ice cubes. Cover and blend until smooth. Stir in cream. Slowly pour sparkling water and wine down the side of the container. Stir gently with a n up-and-down motion to mix. Pour into 4 chilled glasses. If desired, garnish with sliced almonds.
Nina Furstenau teaches food writing in the Science and Agricultural Journalism program at the University of Missouri. She is the author of Savor Missouri: River Hill Country Food and Wine and Biting Through the Skin, She writes “A Spiced Life” column for the Columbia Tribune and blogs here at www.missourilife.com/blogs/savor-missouri.