http://www.missourilife.com/articles Tue, 29 May 2007 18:05:15 GMT Our Latest Articles http://www.missourilife.com/category/100/article/200 THE ICE AGE was just ending, and the woolly mammoths were becoming extinct as early inhabitants of what would become Missouri used spears to hunt food. Some of those early hunters gathered at Graham Cave. “Just beyond the entrance to the large sheltered bluff is one of the best records of early human occupation in the state,” says Debra Ray, park superintendent at Missouri’s Graham Cave State Park. When the University of Missouri and the Missouri Archaeological Society excavated the cave between 1949 and 1955, radiocarbon determined arrowheads, pottery, and grinding utensils to be ten thousand years old. “The age and significance of the material uncovered resulted in this site being the first archaeological location in the United States to be designated a National Historic Landmark in 1961,” Debra says. “Although the interior of the cave is closed to preserve the area for future excavation, visitors standing in front of the 120-foot-wide entrance can see some interesting results of the archaeologists’ work,” Debra says. “The most impressive is a series of large stones around the larger stone. This was possibly an ancient ceremonial location.” Before archaeologists excavated, dust blown into the cave entrance and sand dropped from the ceiling concealed most evidence of humanity under feet of dirt. Metal signage details, archaeological methods, and use of the white excavation markers remain visible. A small exhibit in the park visitor’s center contains an excellent selection of spear points in a variety of sizes and other tools made out of bone and antlers found on site. Also on display is a “nutting stone” with several round indentations. Nuts were placed upon it, and another stone pushed against it, which broke several nuts open at once. “We also have 356 acres with over five miles of hiking and mountain biking trails and boat access to the Loutre River,” Debra says. “The trails pass through some of the most beautiful sandstone and limestone glades in the state.” The picturesque rocks and ledges in the park are covered with lichens, mosses, and ferns. Fence lizards and lichen grasshoppers are frequently seen. Flowers include the Missouri brown-eyed Susan, rose verbena, adders-tongue fern, and prickly pear cactus. “Playgrounds, picnic sites, wooded camping areas with electricity, restrooms, and hot showers combine with nature to make this a perfect spot for an educational and outdoors experience,” she adds. The park’s existence is due to the generosity of the Graham family. Robert Graham settled the area in 1816, buying property from Daniel Morgan Boone. The University of Missouri became interested after family descendants donated artifacts to the school. In 1964, Frances Graham Darnell donated the land to the Department of Natural Resources’ Division of State Parks. Graham Cave State Park is about two miles off Interstate 70 at the Danville/Montgomery City exit (#170). Go north to Route TT and turn left. The park entrance is at 217 Route TT. For more information, call 573-564-3476 or visit www.mostateparks.com/grahamcave.htm Tue, 29 May 2007 18:05:15 GMT http://www.missourilife.com/category/100/article/200 http://www.missourilife.com/category/100/article/146 *Beauty Beyond Measure* *By Rebecca Smith* Over millions of years, the Lost River meandered through dolomite bedrock, creating some of the most spectacular speleothems, or deposits, in the country, in Onondaga Cave. The origin of the Lost River is unknown, but ultimately, it emerges from the rock and joins the Meramec River just south of Leasburg. It was this spring that caught the attention of the locals. Diving into the dark requires an insatiable curiosity of the unknown. That adventurous spirit took hold of Charles Christopher, John Eaton, and Mitis Horine in 1886 when they explored an ever so slight opening above the mouth of the spring that led to what would become known as Onondaga Cave. After navigating the entrance flat on their backs by partially submerging a john boat, the men stepped into a cavern that would be fought over for nearly a century until finally becoming a National Natural Landmark in 1980 and the centerpiece of Onondaga Cave State Park in 1982. In 1902, Christopher’s share of the cave sold to Indian Creek Land Company, owned by George Bothe, Sr., for the mining of the calcite rich deposits; however, that soon proved unprofitable because “cave onyx” was more brittle and weak than the marble it was meant to replace. The owners reopened it as a show cave. The World’s Fair in 1904 brought visitors from St. Louis to the cave, and part of the fanfare included giving it a name. The name Onondaga, submitted by a woman named Myrtle Land during a contest, comes from an Iroquois word meaning “spirit of the mountain.” The profitability of tours soon led to disputes over land rights. Tenants and owners above ground claimed rights to the cave below for income purposes. In 1935, the Missouri Supreme Court settled the dispute by finding that property lines extend underground and allowing both sides to exploit the cave. Bought by Lyman Riley and Lester Dill in 1953, the cave continued its life as a showplace; however, more trouble was on the horizon. In 1967, Congress authorized construction of a dam on the Meramec River that would have flooded the cave. Today, the red paint measurements taken by a private surveyor hired by Dill are still visible and indicate about eighty percent of the cave would have been lost. Following major opposition to the dam by Missouri voters, in 1981, Congress rescinded the bill that would have built the dam, thus preserving the cave for future generations. In the nearly mile-long, ninety-minute tour of the cave, only the Missouri Caverns area is not open to humans. This area, once part of the land dispute, is reserved as a haven for the sixty species of animals that inhabit the cave. Currently, a handrail improvement project is underway to improve the accessibility of the cave. Concrete paths, slightly steep in places, take visitors through an entrance, excavated in 1938 as the walkout exit, down to the landing just inside the natural entrance and into the Big Room that houses the Queen’s Canopy — the largest active formation in the cave. The Big Room is the second largest known cave room in Missouri behind Marvel Cave in Silver Dollar City near Branson. Just before the Lily Pad Room, Jericho’s Wall, a row of stalagmites once used like a xylophone to hammer out “Happy Birthday,” stands below the lifeline of the cave along the ceiling. _The cave is open for daily tours March through October; check with park office for times. For more information, visit www.mostateparks.com/onondaga.htm or call 573-245-6600._ April 2006 Wed, 04 Oct 2006 14:43:13 GMT http://www.missourilife.com/category/100/article/146 http://www.missourilife.com/category/100/article/144 *By Danita Allen Wood* In addition to “The Show-Me State,” Missouri has also earned the moniker, “The Cave State,” because of the more than six thousand caves on record here. Missouri became known as “The Cave State,” even though Tennessee has more caves recorded than we do. Most of our caves are formed in dolomite or limestone, but some are in sandstone or other non-soluble rocks. Scott House, the cave database manager for the Missouri Speleological Survey, reports that 6,110 caves have been recorded in 83 counties, with about 145 of those caves having been recorded since January 2005. Counties with the most caves are Perry, with 657; Shannon, with 548; Greene with 366; Pulaski, with 356; Stone, with 297; Christian, with 220; Crawford, with 210; and Texas, with 182, also according to the Missouri Speleological Survey. There’s something reassuring about these solid rock walls, the primeval shelters for humans and animals. As a child, I toured Marvel Cave at Silver Dollar City on school trips, and I still like to take the tour when I’m in Branson, in spite of Tall Man’s Headache. That’s actually the name of a low-hanging roof at a turn. The guide warns you about it, but once, when the children were young and a little afraid because it was their first cave tour, Greg was distracted and ran head-on into it. He fell flat on his back and learned the origin of the name. We were all worried about him, but he was fine. I’ve also been through Fantastic Caverns, Bridal, Mark Twain, and other caves. There was also a little-known cave, shut part of the year to protect an endangered bat, which became one of our regular trail-ride destinations in Pulaski County along the Big Piney River, when the cave was open. Perhaps the most exciting cave tour I’ve ever gone on, though, was in Kentucky at Mammoth Cave, years ago. During a six-hour wild cave tour, which involved crawling through mud and narrow tunnels, I was behind a large guy who got stuck in a tight passage. The tour guide had actually measured the guy to make sure he didn’t exceed the size limit before we left, but maybe he had twinkies in his pockets. He was close to panic, and so were the two of us behind him. The tour guide kept telling him to relax, that tension made the problem worse. Finally he squeezed through, and I rushed through right behind him. Even that tight spot didn’t cure me. I’d like to go on the wild cave tour in Missouri, at Devil’s Icebox in Rock Bridge Memorial State Park near Columbia. Perhaps it’s the adventure, the mystery —what’s around the next corner? — and the beauty of caves. We will begin sharing Missouri’s caves with you in every issue. Read about the amazing Onondaga Cave on page 12. I hope you’ll be as fascinated as I am. April 2006 Wed, 04 Oct 2006 14:29:52 GMT http://www.missourilife.com/category/100/article/144 http://www.missourilife.com/category/100/article/48 *By Gerry and George Watkins* A farmer's dog discovered Fantastic Caverns just north of Springfield in 1862 after crawling through a hole. Five years later, a local newspaper advertised for explorers. Surprisingly, only twelve Springfield women responded. Dressed in long skirts, they used ropes and ladders to enter the uncharted cave. The adventurous women carved their names into a wall, marking a significant tour stop. In America’s only ridethrough cavern, the centuries-old riverbed creates the perfect route. Guides explain cave origins and speleological formations on a fifty-minute tour that is convenient for seniors, physically challenged individuals, and groups with small children. Temperatures hover at sixty degrees, and the well-lit route gives visitors a superb view of formations while they learn about relationships between cave life, ground water, people, and their stewardship responsibilities. Unusual species inhabit Fantastic Caverns, but you won’t see them. The grotto salamander, cave crawfish, and the blind Ozark cavefish live deeper than the tour route. Thousands of years without light have left these species blind and colorless. The cavern’s past uses also pique visitor interest. The vast Auditorium Room seats several thousand people and has accommodated a variety of audiences over the years, including symphony concerts and grand opera. During the 1920s prohibition, the cave served as a speak-easy, with a large dance pavilion. Vigilantes made the room their headquarters during the 1930s. From the 1950s to the mid-1960s, the cavern hosted a weekly, live country music show, Farmarama. Nationally known stars such as Buck Owens, Ray Price, and Tom T. Hall all made appearances. A classroom that houses the Fantastic Caverns Science Research Program sits adjacent to the Auditorium. Cave employees introduce students from area schools to caves and their ecological role. The family-owned business also arranges special tours for students throughout the year. The owners protect delicate formations by monitoring water quality and using clean-burning propane to fuel the trams. The trams also help cave ecology by reducing the amount of annual traffic to thirty-one percent of what it would be if all 140,000 visitors toured the cave on foot, says Kirk Hansen, Fantastic Caverns public relations director. _Fantastic Caverns is open daily except for Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, and Christmas Day. Call ahead for tour times 417-833-2010 or visit www.fantasticcaverns.com._ June 2006 Wed, 04 Oct 2006 04:18:34 GMT http://www.missourilife.com/category/100/article/48 http://www.missourilife.com/category/100/article/103 Fort Leonard Wood's surroundings provide a range of attractions for the day-tripper or overnighter. The following are just a handful of the many engaging activities nearby. *The Rivers* Canoes are not the only boats floating on the Big Piney and Gasconade rivers; rafts, johnboats, and tubes are also available for rent on both rivers. Big Piney is a spring-fed, cool and fast-paced river. It's not too fast for a family, but Gasconade River offers a lazier flow with great swimming spots. Fishing in the rivers could yield trophy, smallmouth and largemouth bass. *Onyx Mountain Caverns* This attraction in Jerome was recently added to the National Register of Historic Places. During the 19th century, white marble onyx was heavily mined there, but tremendous dripstone formations of the onyx remain. An underground river and artifacts dating back to before A.D. 1,000 also lure visitors into the caverns' depths. Call (573) 762-3341 for more information. Rainbow trout fishing is popular in the Roubidoux Creek, and there is a wheelchair-accessible fishing deck on the banks. Experienced scuba divers will enjoy the twists and turns of the underwater caves in the Roubidoux Spring near downtown Waynesville. *Old Stagecoach Stop* The Old Stagecoach Stop is on the east side of Waynesville's square. This two-story stagecoach shop is located on the Wire Road, named after the telegraph line strung by Union soldiers. The structure was built in 1860 as a log cabin but was later transformed into a Union hospital during the Civil War. At the turn of the century, it was the Black Hotel, operated by the Black family. Mrs. Black sold 10-cent spaces in the balcony to people who wanted to observe Waynesville's last public hanging in 1905. Later, while Fort Leonard Wood was under construction, builders and troops lodged there. The building fell into disrepair until the Old Stagecoach Stop Foundation rescued it from being condemned in 1983. It is now open as a museum through September. Call (573) 435-6766 to tour. *Dixon Festivals* The Dixon Bluegrass Festival, celebrating the local musical heritage, takes place both Labor Day and Memorial Day weekends at the Bluegrass Park on Highway 133. This festival has attracted visitors from 40 states and abroad to hear the strains of the dobro, the country fiddle, and the bluegrass banjo. Held the third weekend in September, Cow Days is a festival rich with local history. In the late 1920s, the Dixon area was feeling the devastating effects of the Great Depression. For several months in 1929 and 1930, area merchants hosted a promotional program, called Cow Days, to attract customers to the city. The prospect of winning a live, healthy adult cow, along with dancing, cow-trading, dining, and parades, brought in thousands of visitors. The original Cow Days celebration lasted only for a few months, but Dixon businesses in the '80s decided to bring back the festival. Cow Days was reborn as a three-day festival featuring arts and crafts booths, street dances, entertainment, parades, beauty pageants, and food. Like the old festival, the new one is highlighted by a drawing for a healthy adult cow donated by local businesses. *Devil's Elbow* Devil's Elbow was once recognized nationally as one of the most beautiful spots in the country with its majestic 300-foot bluffs. Devil's Elbow, actually just a wide part of historic Route 66, is almost entirely surrounded by water. Lumberjacks coined the name after the bend in the river that surrounds the town, which they said was "a devil of an elbow." The town is located off Route Z in eastern Pulaski County. *St. Robert Restaurants* Diners in St. Robert can choose from authentic German and Asian cuisine. Many internationally born spouses of Fort Leonard Wood's military personnel have brought recipes and flavors from home and started restaurants in St. Robert. *Caveman Steak and BBQ Restaurant* Chandeliers, red carpet, waterfalls, and a German chef put them inside a cave and you get the Caveman Steak and BBQ Restaurant, which is east of Richland off Highway 7. Located 100 feet above the Gasconade River, the restaurant offers transportation from the parking lot below. Call (573) 765-4554. *Trail Ride* One of Missouri's longest-running trail rides, The 4-J Big Piney National Scenic Trail Ride features some of the finest trails and food a rider will ever encounter. Call (573) 774-6879 for a free brochure. *U.S. Army Museums* Fort Leonard Wood boasts several free museums, such as the Engineer, Chemical, Military Police, Fort Leonard Wood, and World War II Area museums. Call (573) 596-0780. Tue, 03 Oct 2006 19:06:01 GMT http://www.missourilife.com/category/100/article/103